November 28, 2008

Trip to Cape Canaveral, FL

Second thing I know for sure (check previous post for the 1st thing I know for sure)…I love our boat! This will be evident as I explain our trip from Charleston.

We arrived at Cape Canaveral inlet, our destination, September 21... in the morning …8:15am after 2 days at sea. A beautiful, crisp morning. We two, extremely tired sailors were greeted by the coast guard and thought...oh great!...a CG inspection now?! When our boat is a mess and we are both dead tired? But, no...they wanted to let us know a nuclear submarine was leaving the area and they needed us to move 1000 yards south to get out of the way. Cool! We can do that. That was exciting to see.
(If you click on these pictures to enlarge you can see the guys on the sub)

Our trip here was out of Mr. Toad's Wild Ride. When we left Charleston on Wednesday morning, about 7:15am, it was freezing, and there were some big winds, but we were ready to go. I had on a t-shirt, a turtle neck, another long sleeve shirt, my hooded sweatshirt, and my foul weather jacket, as well as my pajama bottoms, my khakis, and Randy's sweats....and my woolen ski hat! This is NOT the kind of weather we want to sail in. We are used to cold sailing being from the California bay area, but not C-O-L-D sailing! It had to be in the low 30s. The wind made the seas coming out of Charleston really choppy. But Kwanesum was amazing.

I loved how Kwanesum responded to the seas. Hence the number 2 thing I know for sure…I love our boat. She works the waves really well and smoothly. Like a surfer choosing his path. No pounding. And the auto helm was amazing. Held us right on course with not a falter. Love it! One of the things great about sailing is the response of a boat to natural elements.

We turned south out of the channel down the Atlantic and the seas calmed down. Our goal was to head to about 20 miles off shore.

Our friends from Deltaville, Jack and Marianne on GravyBoat, who spent that last week in Charleston, were going to head out that morning as well. We hailed them in the morning but they missed our call. They decided to leave later and let the winds calm down. Their destination was St Augustine where Marianne’s brother has a home. We do hope to catch up with them in the Caribbean or sooner. They have sailed many years in the Caribbean and were anxious to get where it’s warm! And that’s what we want, too! Warm sun and water we can swim in.

I was still really cold. It’s hard to warm up once you get that cold. We decided to motor-sail the entire way. Running the engine with the main sail up. Randy tested the wind with just sails but it was not enough for us to make good time. Ours is a heavy boat. We just wanted to get there. Plus our auto helm takes power. Running the engine keeps it powered up. We were doing 6-7 knots while motor-sailing. The engine just purred like a kitten. We were so proud of our boat. We do have an advantage in this kind of weather over others in that we are used to being miserable while sailing. =) We've sailed in rough, cold seas like this a zillion times out in northern CA, so this was just par for the course for us. We knew it wouldn't last forever.

We did 3 hour shifts which worked well. As the sun started setting the seas started getting larger. The weather was perfect...clear skies, but the winds picked up to 20+ knots and the seas responded to that. The course we were on had the seas hitting us sideways, which isn't the most comfortable way to go! But again, Kwanesum rode them like a surfing champ.

Ellen, however, didn't ride them as well. After a while, I went below to try to sleep and the creepy, crawlie, stomach stuff got a hold of me. Darn it! I hate when that happens. I do take Bonine and it works really well for me but when the seas are big and I’m down below…the 2 don’t always add up correctly for me. But it passes.

By now things were shifting off the starboard shelves, too. Books I had secured, but obviously not well enough. Kind of a mess down below. I did my thing in the head over the not-so-porcelan bowl and tried to sleep a little more, telling Randy I needed a little more time before my shift. He's amazing...just kept going out there even though he was freezing, too. Thank heaven for our dodger and bimini set up. This is the canvas covering the opening of the companion way (stairs down into the boat) and over the cockpit. It was perfect, in that we'd check the helm and the seas and the instruments, making sure all was well, then tuck in under the dodger to stay warm and out of the wind and seas. We had a kitchen timer we put on 20 minute intervals, then do our checking. It was a good system for us.

The seas calmed down and we moved along. It started getting warmer, too, which was a great relief. Still we had all our gear on, but it was a more comfortable temperature. During the day, the seas remained calmer. We found we had a hard time getting our sleep in. It's hard to relax long enough to really sleep. We cat napped often when we could.


That evening I had the 6:00 – 9:00pm shift and it was magical. The seas weren't bad at all. The weather was warm enough that I could enjoy sitting at the helm. I lay on my back across the helm and watched the stars for a long time. Do you know how bright the stars are when there is no light around from any source? It's wonderful. When Randy came on at 9:00pm I just sat out there with him and dozed until my next shift. Of course the seas picked up again, so we were riding the wild ride once more. This time I handled it well...my stomach handled it well. Kwanesum was a crusty old sea salt by the time she got into the marina. It’s amazing to see all the salt that accumulates on the boat after a bout at sea.

We are tucked in now very comfortably at the Harbortown Canaveral Marina at Merritt Island, FL. Near Cape Canaveral. If we had gotten here a little earlier we could have witnessed the shuttle launch! We're hoping to catch the landing. Not much around here, but just a bike ride to many stores. And the price is really reasonable. Considerably more reasonable than City Marina in Charleston. It gets chilly at night but much warmer than Charleston. We’ve had some beautiful warm sunny days.

When we got here we checked in at the marina office and then had a yummy hamburger at the restaurant here. It was perfect! Neither one of us ate much on the way, though we had plenty to keep us going. We came back to the boat and went to sleep for 4 hours. Ahhhhhh.

We got our bikes out and found lots to explore. We have also, of course, found a sports bar that serves my Shock Top beer and great bar food. What waistline? The burger here at the restaurant is a top runner for best burger in the area. For Thanksgiving, we were missing our family so we decided to make a picnic and ride to the beach. We rode our bikes to Cocoa Beach. I made fried chicken and macaroni salad and off we went. About an hour bike ride to get there. It was a beautiful day and a nice beach. A little trivia here...Cocoa Beach was the place where astronaut Larry Hagman lived in My Dream of Jeannie! (I didn't remember that. Randy gets the credit. Why would he remember that?)
It feels so good to be in Florida! We're getting closer to the warm sunny beaches of the Bahamas. It’s definitely warmer here. We saw one little gator and the tails of some manatees since we’ve been here. I’m hoping to see more of them before we leave.

We are going to rent a car and go see the sites… and tour the Island Packet factory in Largo. Maybe even venture to Disney World! We plan to fly to California for Christmas on December 17, returning December 31. We will see what the next plans are when we return!

November 27, 2008

Charleston, SC

OK…there are 2 things I know for sure:
1) Charleston, SC is a splendid, charming town.
2) We have the greatest boat! (see next blog post)

Our stay in Charleston was enchanting. We immediately took to the town…you know that good feeling you get, or don’t get, when you stop somewhere new? Charleston definitely elicited a charismatic feeling. My kind of town…Charleston is.

We learned of pluff mud, saw dolphins play with their fish catch, mailed in our absentee ballots, shooed away the grackles, tasted gator tails, boiled peanuts, hush puppies, fried green tomatoes, rode our bikes to the Citadel and watched the dress parade, took a cupcake decorating class (well, Randy didn’t), discovered our favorite pub after testing quite a few, found our favorite deli, had a perfect martini, had a great soup by a perfect bonfire by the water, walked, walked, walked and rode our bikes everywhere! What we didn't do? LEARN THE SHAG!

Pluff Mud: This dark, soft mud was all around the marina at low tide. It’s a lowcountry term. Apparently it’s famous in this area for being great soil to grow rice in. Carolina Gold. But the modern machinery can’t manage this soft mud as it was earlier harvested only by slaves. It looks like chocolate whipped cream! But doesn’t smell as nice. Great word, pluff.

Grackles: These are the big blackbirds that started visiting all the boats early every morning and at sunset. Unwanted visitors! Just like the movie, The Birds! They made a mess on all the boats so we tried to shoo them off best we could.

Gator tails: Loved them! And, no, they don’t taste like chicken. We had them as an hors d'oeuvres. They tasted more like beef than chicken.

Boiled Peanuts: We liked these, too! Not everyone does. They’re certainly different than roasted peanuts but they’re served warm and they pop out of their shells like edamame. The shells being soft. Yummy!

Hush Puppies: Delicious. We tasted a lot of these foods I mention here at Hymans Restaurant which is renowned in Charleston. Always long lines at Hymans. We were dining with new friends and one of the owners brought these out to taste. These are golden-brown puffs supposedly invented to stop the barking puppies at an outdoor feast. They’re made by putting corn-bread batter into deep fat…’bout the shape of a donut hole. (Hyman's also make a great bloody mary, though I've never had one for dinner before. Of course I had to try it. Delicious. But I like them better in the morning. Weird having one for dinner. But I guess it's what they do! Apparently it's one of their specialties.)

Fried Green Tomatoes: I loved the book and the movie and now I’ve tasted them. And of course they’re delicious.

The Citadel: Randy and I were fortunate enough to have a wonderful tour of the Citadel at the invitation of our friend Speedy, a retired Brigadier General, and the General who replaced him, who was also a graduate of the Citadel. A very special evening. We wanted to see their dress parade so rode our bikes a week later to the Friday afternoon ceremony. Terrific. Particularly the drum and pipes band. There’s nothing like bag pipes. Thanks Speedy!

Decorating cupcakes: A wonderful kitchen store, Charleston Cooks, held the class one Saturday morning. Rode my bike in and had a blast! I can be the cruising cupcake maker.

The Blind Tiger: Best pub, best hamburger we found, tried Shock Top beer, food was always good. Love finding the best burger and new beers.

Wentworth Station: Best deli, best BLT. This deli was suggested by the bike shop we frequented when we asked where to get a good sandwich. And they were right. Went there many times.

Charleston Place: Best martini. Perfectly chilled, perfectly timed. I’m sure it was shaken, not stirred.

The Perfect Bonfire: Through our new friends Larry and Dona Jean on Amilado at City Marina, we met some very nice folks who live on the outskirts of Charleston and invited us to their home. I am embarassed that we failed to get their card and have forgotten their names! (On this cruising life, boaters have cards made up like business cards with all their information on them. It's a great way to stay in touch.) Their house is on a pretty waterway on which we took a cocktail cruise and came back to a warm bonfire, wonderful soup and fresh caught shrimp off the BBQ. Oh my.

The Shag: I have heard about this dance many times and want to experience this for sure! Another reason I have to get back to Charleston. Stay tuned for further news on this one. How fun to dance the Shag with the Ran-ster! I must learn this dance. And I think the Charleston dance was invented in Charleston. Is this place great or what?

We did not get to experience as many restaurants in Charleston as we thought we would. So many there… so little time. We need to watch our pennies, not to mention our waist lines. Waist line watching is NOT easy! I'm actually failing at that but hoping to snap out of it soon!

At this time we plan to get back to Charleston and leave our boat during hurricane season (must be above 32ยบ latitude). We’ll be able to do more discriminating tasting at that time. We met some wonderful friends in Larry and Dona Jean who were just 2 boats down from us on the dock. We will be able to enjoy them again , too.

Our youngest son Skip is getting married in April so the plan is to park the boat in the Bahamas and fly back to CA for a few weeks to celebrate that wonderful event! We did not want to rush our Bahama experience so we have decided to not rush to the Caribbean but return to Charleston by the end of the cruising season in June. We will then catch a sailing rally called the Caribbean 1500 that will take us directly to the Caribbean in November 2009. Again the insurance companies dictate our time. But…not a bad life, eh?